1. What is a Complete Overhaul?

A complete overhaul involves completely disassembling a watch and servicing every part of its movement to restore it to factory specifications. It includes:

Movement Servicing: Every part of the movement is disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled to ensure the watch operates smoothly and accurately.

Replacement of Worn Parts: If any internal components (gears, springs, seals) are worn or damaged, they are replaced with new or compatible parts.

Caliber Adjustment: The movement is calibrated and regulated to ensure accurate timekeeping.

Testing: After reassembly, the watch undergoes extensive testing, including accuracy testing, power reserve testing, and checking the water resistance (if applicable).

The goal of an overhaul is to restore the watch to its original condition, ensuring it functions like new and lasts for many more years.

2. What is Watch Restoration?

Watch restoration refers to bringing an old, vintage, or severely damaged watch back to life, focusing not just on functionality but also on aesthetics. It’s typically performed on high-end, luxury, or vintage watches that have sentimental or monetary value. The restoration process aims to make the watch appear as close to its original state as possible while also restoring its mechanical functions.

Restoration can include:

Movement Restoration: This may involve repairing or replacing worn components in the movement.

Dial Restoration: Repainting or refurbishing the dial if it has faded, discolored, or cracked.

Case Polishing and Repair: Fixing dents, scratches, or other imperfections in the case. Sometimes the case is completely refinished.

Crystal Replacement: Replacing a cracked or scratched crystal with a new one, possibly upgrading to a more durable material (e.g., replacing mineral glass with sapphire crystal).

Bracelet/Strap Restoration: Fixing or replacing worn-out straps or bracelets, often restoring them to their original condition or replacing them with similar parts.

Restoration can help preserve the value of a vintage watch, keeping it functional while maintaining its original character.

3. The Complete Overhaul Process

A complete overhaul typically follows these steps:

1. Watch Evaluation

Initial Assessment: The technician will evaluate the overall condition of the watch, including its movement, case, and crystal. They will discuss with you any specific issues (e.g., poor timekeeping, scratches, water resistance) and provide an estimate for the work required.

2. Disassembly

Case Opening: The technician carefully removes the caseback to access the movement. Some watches require the movement to be taken out of the case entirely.

Disassembly of the Movement: The movement is fully disassembled into its individual components (gears, wheels, hands, mainspring, etc.). Each piece is cataloged and inspected for wear and damage.

3. Cleaning

Cleaning the Movement: Each component of the movement is cleaned using specialized equipment (often ultrasonic cleaners) to remove dirt, old lubricants, and any debris that could affect performance.

Cleaning the Case and Bracelet: The case is cleaned to remove dirt, oils, and grime. The bracelet or strap may also be cleaned or restored, depending on its condition.

4. Lubrication

Re-lubrication of the Movement: Once cleaned, the components are carefully lubricated with high-quality oils to reduce friction and wear. Proper lubrication ensures smooth operation of the movement and helps prevent future damage.

5. Replacement of Worn Parts

Replacement of Damaged Components: Any worn, broken, or damaged components (such as gears, springs, or jewels) are replaced with either new or high-quality compatible parts. In some cases, if original parts are unavailable, skilled technicians will find the closest possible match.

6. Reassembly and Calibration

Reassembly: The movement is carefully reassembled, and all components are checked for proper fit and alignment.

Calibration and Regulation: Once the movement is reassembled, the watch is tested for accuracy using a timegrapher, and adjustments are made to ensure the watch is keeping time within the manufacturer’s specifications.

7. Testing

Power Reserve Testing: The watch is wound, and its power reserve is tested to ensure it runs for the duration it is rated for (typically 40–48 hours for most automatic watches).

Water Resistance Testing: If the watch is water-resistant, it will be tested for its rated resistance level (often through a pressure test) to ensure the seals and gaskets are intact.

General Functionality Testing: The watch is tested for any additional issues, such as winding issues, date complications, or chronograph functions (if applicable).

8. Final Inspection and Case Polishing

Case Inspection and Polishing: After the movement is restored, the watch case and bracelet (if applicable) are inspected for any wear and damage. Any scratches, dents, or imperfections in the case are polished and repaired as needed. For vintage watches, the original design and finish of the case are carefully preserved.

Crystal Replacement or Polishing: If the crystal is scratched, cracked, or damaged, it will be replaced with a new one, or the existing crystal will be polished to restore its clarity.

9. Return to Customer

After all the work is completed, the watch is returned to the customer, usually with a guarantee that the work will last for a certain period.

4. Watch Restoration Process

The restoration process is similar to an overhaul but focuses more on the cosmetic aspects of the watch as well as restoring the movement. This can include:

Dial Restoration: If the dial has faded, cracked, or suffered from discoloration, the technician may repaint or refurbish the dial to match the original design. Sometimes, they may restore or replace the luminous material on the hands or markers.

Case Restoration: If the watch case has significant scratches, dents, or discoloration, it can be professionally polished and repaired. The watchmaker will ensure that the case retains its original design and finish, often restoring it to its original condition.

Replacing Worn Components: Worn or damaged parts like hands, markers, or indices may be replaced with original parts to restore the appearance and functionality of the watch.

Crystal Replacement: The damaged or scratched crystal will be replaced with a new one, restoring the watch’s appearance and protecting the dial.

5. Why Opt for a Complete Overhaul and Restoration?

Improved Accuracy and Functionality: Over time, the movement of the watch can lose its accuracy due to worn-out parts. A complete overhaul and restoration will ensure that your watch is keeping time within the specified parameters.

Preserving Value: For high-end or vintage watches, restoring the watch to its original condition helps preserve its value. This is particularly important for collectors or those who plan to sell the watch later.

Aesthetic Appeal: Restoration can make an old or worn watch look brand new again, from its dial to its case, making it a valuable piece to wear or display.

Extended Lifespan: A thorough overhaul and restoration can significantly extend the life of a watch, keeping it running smoothly for many years to come.

6. How Long Does a Complete Overhaul or Restoration Take?

A complete overhaul and restoration typically takes anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks or longer, depending on the complexity of the watch, the parts that need to be sourced, and the amount of work required. Vintage watches or those with difficult-to-find parts may take longer.

7. Cost of Overhaul and Restoration

The cost of a complete overhaul and restoration varies based on the brand, type of movement, and the extent of work needed. For example:

Standard Overhaul: For a basic mechanical or automatic watch, an overhaul might cost between $200 and $600.

Luxury Watches: High-end or luxury brands (such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet) can cost anywhere from $500 to $2,000 or more, depending on the extent of restoration needed.

Restoration Costs: If parts need to be sourced or dial work is required, the cost of restoration can increase significantly, especially for vintage models.

Conclusion

A complete overhaul and restoration is an investment in your watch's longevity, accuracy, and aesthetic appeal. Whether you own a luxury timepiece, a vintage watch, or a beloved everyday watch, this service can breathe new life into your timepiece and ensure it continues to perform beautifully for many years to come.

If you have a watch in need of a full overhaul or restoration, consult with a trusted watchmaker or service center to assess the condition of your watch and get an accurate estimate for the work required.